PARIS (AP) 鈥� Dior staged an homage to sport on the eve of the on the grounds of the Mus茅e Rodin on the first day of Paris Couture Week on Monday.
The show let the sumptuous, lightweight silks 鈥� georgette, taffeta, tulle, and sporty jersey 鈥� speak for themselves, draped elegantly over the body.
Here are some highlights of the fall-winter 2024 collections:
Athletes old and new
The walls were lined with mesmeric artworks in eye-popping color of sports players and athletes by artist Faith Ringgold, who died in April. Designer used fall鈥檚 couture as a stage 鈥渢o pay a fitting tribute to all athletes 鈥� from antiquity to the present day.鈥�
On the runway, Grecian-style draping evoked the original Olympics. The nod to antiquity echoed the Italian designer鈥檚 penchant for historical influences.
Jersey fabric, an unconventional couture material, was handled poetically. It cascaded down the model鈥檚 body in loose, fluttery segments, with a twin leather belt to define the waist.
Mosaic embroidery on skin-tight tank tops added a contemporary twist, seeming to sculpt the bust. Sandals adorned with pearls sported crisscross straps up the leg.
The nicest looks were the simplest. An ecru lightweight wool gown seemed like a single whoosh of fabric, hanging whimsically and loosely from the shoulders. It had an unexpected cowl back. This simplicity with an element of surprise is quintessential Chiuri, who has said she often finds elegance in restraint.
Venus Williams marveled and applauded from the front row.
Schiaparelli鈥檚 phoenix rises
Couture Week kicked off with a bang at the H么tel Salomon de Rothschild. , veiled and striking in a pink ribbed hourglass Schiaparelli bustier, caused a media frenzy. Doja Cat appeared in a coat with pronounced shoulders, while 鈥淓mily in Paris鈥� star Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu added to the star-studded front row. Guests were enveloped in an intimate black box-like setting adorned with nostalgic chandeliers.
On the runway, designer Daniel Roseberry unveiled fall silhouettes inspired by the legendary phoenix. The bird and rebirth theme was inspired by Schiaparelli鈥檚 homage to ballerina Anna Pavlova, symbolized by a coq feather stole she once wore. The couture was executed with theatrical flair.
The show opened with a breathtaking phoenix gown featuring 3D chrome trompe l鈥檕eil feathered wings over a black ensemble, paired with silver eggshell earrings. This set the tone for a collection defined by technical skill.
Phoenix motifs appeared throughout. Gowns of washed silk and wool crepe bustier dresses featured phoenix-wing shoulders and plunging necklines. Models, heads wrapped in transparent crepe, engaged the audience with direct eye contact, creating a commanding presence.
Standout pieces included a bustier dress of moving circles, creating a mesmerizing effect, and a cocoon-shaped jumpsuit of faux horsehair and sequins mimicking zebra skin. These designs were accompanied by a haunting soundtrack featuring Nina Simone鈥檚 鈥淧lain Gold Ring.鈥�
Roseberry鈥檚 exploration of Schiaparelli鈥檚 relationship with women 鈥� emphasizing their power to reinvent themselves 鈥� was clear. 鈥淭he context of this collection, which honors Elsa鈥檚 singular gift for rebirth, is second only to its form,鈥� he said.
Reflecting on the bond between fashion and wearers, Roseberry remarked: 鈥淧eople don鈥檛 buy Schiaparelli; they collect it.鈥� This sentiment resonated throughout the collection, offering garments that were not merely fashion statements but pieces of history and art meant to be treasured.
Van Herpen breaks the mold
Iris van Herpen presented her couture as sculptures in what the house called a 鈥減rofound shift鈥� in the Dutch designer鈥檚 trajectory.
鈥淔or a long time I鈥檝e been working on expanding people鈥檚 perception of how fashion and art can be symbiotic,鈥� van Herpen said. She compared her techniques in couture, such as draping directly on the mannequin, to sculpting.
鈥淓ven though we call one practice 鈥榟aute couture鈥� and the other 鈥榓rt,鈥� to me, it鈥檚 one universe,鈥� she said.
Van Herpen unveiled her collection amid her new large-scale, monumental pieces at a 鈥渉ybrid" show. They were crafted with innovative techniques on tulle surfaces and suspended via steel tubes.
While preparing her retrospective in Paris' Mus茅e des Arts D茅coratifs that recently closed, van Herpen realized a longstanding ambition to delve into sculpture and painting. Her new works, developed over a year, reconnect with nature and the freedom of slowing down. Her move to a tranquil residence outside Amsterdam fostered this idea.
鈥淭he little transformations that happen every day fiercely inspire me,鈥� she said.
The fall couture dovetailed with similar themes. Gravity-defying, slowed-down silhouettes and ethereal draping embraced the couturier鈥檚 signature three-dimensional printing and silk folding. The Umwelt and Aeromorphosis gowns featured a gradient of pearls mimicking cyclonic sculptures, while the transparent Ataraxy dress, sculpted with a heat gun, captured the sense of floating away. They held a Renaissance-like feel.
Honoring Japanese craftsmanship, the Sensorium dress was crafted from obi fabric, which evoked a sense of spirituality and peace.
Froth, flowers and illusions at Valli
Froth, flowers, and more than meets the eye 鈥� that鈥檚 the signature of Giambattista Valli, the master of couture illusions. Known for his sumptuous off-kilter silhouettes, the Italian designer once again delivered one of the most highly anticipated shows of the Paris couture calendar.
His collections often merge Italian ebullience with Parisian flirty nonchalance, creating a distinct yet harmonious blend.
A pink silk gown that might have seemed classical was given a contemporary lift, with unexpected segments pulled up in an avant-garde twist. Adding to the visual spectacle, the model鈥檚 face was painted blue, evoking an ethereal, otherworldly Eastern aura reminiscent of Valli鈥檚 penchant for blending classicism with modernity.
His mastery in creating weightless volumes and intricate draping was evident throughout. A lilac bridal dress showcased his signature florals, with petals falling down the tulle haphazardly, mimicking the natural shedding of a dying flower 鈥� a poetic nod to nature鈥檚 fleeting beauty.
Another veiled bridal look featured an acid gold frothing beam around the bust, a statement piece that combined Valli鈥檚 love for volume and fashion-forward color clashes.
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
