PARIS (AP) 鈥� Sculptural figures resembling cane warriors, clad in billowing dresses that evoked skeletal forms, stood sentinel on Dior鈥檚 runway Tuesday, presenting a visual metaphor for the protection of vanishing cultures. The display marked another chapter in 鈥檚 ongoing fusion of fashion and fine art at Paris Fashion Week.
Celebrities including Jennifer Lawrence, Maisie Williams, Elizabeth Debicki and Natalie Portman were among the audience, captivated by a collection that revisited the 1960s and the genesis of ready-to-wear at . As described by the fashion house, this era was a pivotal moment 鈥渨hen fashion left the atelier to conquer the world.鈥�
Here are some highlights of Tuesday鈥檚 Fall-Winter 2024 displays:
DIOR 60鈥檚 ART FUSION: A MODERN TRIBUTE TO FREEDOM
The cane frame sculptural decor by Mumbai-based artist Shakuntala Kulkarni made for a dramatic armor-like backdrop for designs that celebrated the freedom and empowerment of ready-to-wear clothes for the modern woman. The collection revisited the 1960s with a fresh, contemporary lens.
The collection鈥檚 footwear, with its buckled, strappy knee-high boots, directly mirrored the cane ceiling鈥檚 latticework, while elsewhere, garments paid tribute to the 60s鈥� iconic nipped waists and A-line silhouettes. Yet, Chiuri skillfully infused these retro elements with a modern twist, incorporating sportswear styles with round-shouldered coats that exuded a minimalist feel.
Scarves, a recurring favorite of Chiuri鈥檚, were ubiquitous for fall, and were in the program notes heralded as 鈥減rotective, enveloping, and embellishing as required鈥� for a free and worldly woman.
Among the collection鈥檚 highlights was a voluminous black crossover coat with an Asian influence, cinched at the waist and paired with a funky, studded black leather beret, standing out as a testament to Chiuri鈥檚 innovative historic fusion. Echoing the color palette of Marc Bohan, Dior鈥檚 designer in the 1960s, the collection dazzled in white, orange, pink and neon green, with makeup tones to match. Exquisite pieces crafted in double cashmere and gabardine spanned little dresses, pants, coats, jackets and skirts, boldly cut above the knee, marking a chic, pared-down approach.
DIOR鈥橲 NOSTALGIC JOURNEY THROUGH FASHION鈥橲 PAST
Dior鈥檚 recent showcase was a deep dive into the annals of style history, offering guests a meticulously crafted lesson in the evolution of ready-to-wear.
At the show鈥檚 heart, the Miss Dior logo took center stage, elegantly emblazoned across an array of dresses, skirts and coats, each a testament to the brand鈥檚 rich heritage. The house provided attendees with detailed notes on the origins of ready-to-wear, spotlighting Dior鈥檚 pioneering role in the movement. Following Chloe鈥檚 footsteps, arguably the first recognized ready-to-wear brand established in 1952, Dior unveiled its inaugural ready-to-wear line under Bohan鈥檚 creative stewardship in the 1960s. This initiative marked a significant chapter in fashion and democratized luxury wear.
SAINT LAURENT鈥橲 STUDY IN SENSUALITY AND CONTRADICTION
Saint Laurent鈥檚 indoor display was a spectacle of shadow and light, drawing an illustrious crowd that included Lily Collins, Diane Kruger, Olivia Wilde, Zoe Saldana and Kate Moss. Navigating the near pitch-black venue, guests were ushered by torchlight past opulent green-gold brocade curtains, setting the stage for a show steeped in sensuality and intrigue. An opera soundtrack and the lingering scents of perfume underscored it.
Designer Anthony Vaccarello took his sensuality to new heights this season. The collection featured skin-tight, sheer silks in subtle, powdery palettes that meticulously outlined the models鈥� forms, reminiscent of an 鈥淴-ray.鈥� Inspired by the iconic 鈥渘aked鈥� gown Marilyn Monroe wore on her last public appearance, a signature for the storied house, it made for a provocative yet elegant statement where fabric seemed to melt into the skin. Contrasting this sex appeal, silk caps added a contradictory layer of covering, mystery, and class to the ensembles 鈥� alongside the allure of the gleaming statement earrings.
The show鈥檚 mood was further accentuated by the addition of large, black patent leather coats, introducing a rich textural contrast that broodingly mirrored the runway鈥檚 glossy, oil-slick surface.
This collection is one of Vaccarello鈥檚 most memorable thus far, striking a skillful balance between revealing and concealing. Crepe georgette suits draped softly over the skin alongside marabou feather coats that billowed with a timeless, ethereal weight. This fall showed that Vaccarello is a designer in evolution, demonstrating his adeptness at weaving the house鈥檚 historical elegance with contemporary flair.
VOGUE TO CELEBRATE PARIS OLYMPICS WITH JOINT FASHION SHOW
Fashion magazine Vogue is setting the stage for a celebration of fashion and sports with a special show to herald the upcoming . Under the leadership of Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour, the fashion magazine announced it will host a unique gathering of France鈥檚 premier luxury brands on June 23, coinciding with International Olympic Day and setting the scene for the Games beginning just over a month later.
The 鈥淧aris (fashion show) will be a tribute to the Olympic Games," Wintour said in a statement. "It鈥檚 a dream to make the Place Vend么me Vogue World鈥檚 home 鈥� I can鈥檛 think of a setting that better captures the city鈥檚 rich history and glamour.鈥� This event will mark a significant moment, celebrating 100 years of French fashion alongside the spirit of the Olympics, as Paris last welcomed the Games in 1924.
The show promises a fusion of fashion and Olympic disciplines, featuring renowned labels like Jacquemus, Balmain and Louis Vuitton, its men's lines now under the creative direction of .
VAQUERA REDEFINES PUNK WITH A DASH OF PROVOCATION IN PARIS
Vaquera, the brand that first captured the fashion world鈥檚 attention with a dramatic U.S. flag gown and its sweeping train years ago in New York, has once again made waves. This fall, designers Patric DiCaprio and Bree Taubensee transported the audience back to the vibrant energy of the 80s, infusing their collection with a mix of denim, fur, tulle and an undeniably punk attitude, all while introducing a modern twist.
The duo unveiled an audacious American currency print in a bold homage to punk鈥檚 rebellious roots. The design 鈥� which manipulated the image of Andrew Jackson with graffiti and hearts, and stamped the word 鈥淔AKE鈥� over an image of the White House 鈥� was not just a feat of artistic defiance but also a commentary on the value systems that dominate today鈥檚 society. This striking print graced everything from a crisply tailored button-down and tie to a cummerbund on effortlessly chic trousers.
GERMANIER CHANNELS UPCYCLED DISCO GLAMOUR AND CABARET CHIC
One brand that captures the essence of upcycling glamour with a disco twist commanded attention: Germanier. Founded by Kevin Germanier, who has become synonymous with sustainable luxury, the latest collection was an homage to the electric atmosphere of cabaret. He masterfully intertwined his commitment to environmental consciousness with high fashion, presenting a line that was nothing short of disco-fabulous.
This season, the runway sparkled with eye-popping neons and gleaming jewels, embodying the extravagant disco era. A standout piece included a dress adorned with billowing glittered disco ribbons, creating a dynamic cascade of color and light.
Accessories were no less dramatic, with a neon yellow boa and disco-inspired opera gloves that offered style contradictions.
Germanier鈥檚 innovative use of materials was apparent in a microdress constructed from giant gleaming jewels. The collection鈥檚 palette vibrated with vivid colors, from the ethereal floaty gowns made of acid-toned ostrich feathers to a mini adorned with multicolored candies, showcasing Germanier鈥檚 unique blend of whimsy and sophistication.
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
