PARIS (AP) 鈥� Balmain鈥檚 pearls and crystals dazzled Paris Fashion Week Wednesday in its stylish ode to the '80鈥檚. Meanwhile, geopolitical activism met tuxedo jackets when one vocal Ukrainian designer put on a show paying homage to her country and team of over 20 people currently working in Kyiv.
Here are some highlights of Wednesday鈥檚 fall-winter 2023-2024 ready-to-wear collections:
UKRAINE鈥橲 LITKOVSKA GOES 鈥淥N AIR鈥�
鈥淔rom the war zone with peace,鈥� read the ticker outside Paris鈥� Grand Rex cinema, a model of New York鈥檚 Radio City Music Hall.
Inside, guests gathered in the Art Deco auditorium for a show by Ukrainian designer Lila Litkovska that continued with a radio theme.
Titled 鈥淥n air,鈥� it was a metaphor for the unpredictable way life in Ukraine is unfolding by the minute. The soundtrack of the ready-to-wear show flicked between radio stations, in constant interruption. Litkovska鈥檚 collection reflected this sense of haphazardness by mixing up styles in a generally loose and oversized display.
There were the more commercial looks, such as a black tuxedo coat worn over a floppy black slit skirt and sneakers, alongside more abstract plays in shape, like a black coat wrapped on the midriff with long sleeves to create an intentionally off-kilter silhouette.
Simple menswear suits were the nicest in what was ultimately a low-key show, with long sashes from the silken undergarments fluttering elegantly behind like a train.
But it was not just about fashion. A video link beside the runway showed a live shot of Litkovska鈥檚 team in Ukraine鈥檚 capital.
UKRAINE鈥橲 FASHION ACTIVISM
Litkovska fled to Paris with her 2-year-old daughter when Russian missiles started pounding Kyiv in February 2022. But the bright-eyed and optimistic designer, who launched her eponymous brand 14 years ago and shows at Paris Fashion Week, pressed on creating her 鈥渕ade in Ukraine鈥� designs by relocating studios to a safer location within the country.
鈥淚n the first week of the Russian invasion, we relocated to Lviv in the west of Ukraine. But we came back (to Kyiv) at the beginning of summer with our productions and with everyone there,鈥� she told The Associated Press.
Litkovska said that now 鈥渋t鈥檚 the same factory the same office, the same team,鈥� as before the war and she has even 鈥渆xtended (the size of) our team during the first year of the war because our orders are up.鈥�
By organizing activist fashion events with other Ukrainian designers over the last year, including pop ups in Paris, Berlin, Munich and Milan, she has raised about 50,000 euros ($53,000) that has gone toward buying medicine, as well as to supporting Kyiv鈥檚 biggest children鈥檚 hospital and the armed forces. She asked for 30% of profits to go to Ukraine.
鈥淚t鈥檚 an amazing process,鈥� she said, describing how one of her initiatives involved selling little angels.
The fashion community is key to raising awareness 鈥� and money 鈥� for the war effort as it 鈥渉as a big following, millions and millions, and they can attract their audience for what鈥檚 going on,鈥� Litkovska said.
BALMAIN鈥橲 '80s SPARKLE
VIPs such as Jessica Alba negotiated screaming crowds outside Le Carreau du Temple to enter Balmain鈥檚 world of calm, wafting perfume and champagne-serving waiters.
This fall, Olivier Rousteing channeled his disco ball realness for an infectious collection 鈥� featuring all-pearl shades, iridescent archive bell-skirt dresses and blinding crystal-embellished jackets that unfurled like flowers.
The designer said he was inspired by the 鈥淣ew French Style,鈥� attributed to house founder Pierre Balmain, with the collection's glamorous post-war styles, flying saucer hats, nipped waists and bell silhouettes.
The collection was also just an excuse to sparkle. Bold 1980s looks stunned guests 鈥� including kinky black sheeny gowns, giant textured jackets made solely of pearl, and huge cranberry knife pleats that shot out from a skirt.
There were screams when the designer came out to receive applause.
DRIES VAN NOTEN, GENDER BENDER
The Belgian master of contradictions subverted the feminine with menswear for his fall collection, breaking it up with lashings of flowers and flashes of gold. They were touches that gave the sumptuous collection both softness and edge.
Soft silk trim peaked out of the hems of a charcoal pinstripe men鈥檚 suit jacket, while another pinstripe style 鈥� this time double breasted 鈥� was worn atop a silk printed foulard skirt that hung on the bias. Subtlety was the name of the game.
Even glam rock elements, such as a gold leather coat, were handled carefully. The coat had a vintage feel with little wrinkles and was worn on a bare chest.
UNDERCOVER MAKES CONTRASTS
Jun Takahashi, founder and designer of the Japanese streetwear-infused brand Undercover, once cited British designer Vivienne Westwood, who died in December, as an inspiration.
Whiffs of Westwood鈥檚 signature punk were in the air as Takahashi displayed a funky collection with eccentric flourishes and contrasts galore.
Sheeny gray bubble material became a parachute-like shawl with contrasting bib that looked regal. It was worn over Formula One-style wader boots and a black and white racing check motif at the crotch.
This high versus low musing continued in a frayed bomber jacket made of posh tweed and kinky boots in bright violet. Sartorial suits came in acid tones.
Gloves on one hand, and a hand motif on pants that seemed to want to creep spookily up the leg added this season鈥檚 must-have gimmick.
LAGERFELD BOOK
Fashion insiders gathered by the Musee d鈥橭rsay to celebrate a new book about former Chanel front man Karl Lagerfeld, whose death in 2019 at age 85 still leaves a shadow over Paris Fashion Week.
To mark the global launch of 鈥淧aradise Now: The Extraordinary Life of Karl Lagerfeld,鈥� author William Middleton conversed with magazine editor Elizabeth von Guttman about the genesis of the book.
Middleton said his biography talked about the German-born couturier鈥檚 business acumen 鈥� beyond his design artistry.
鈥淲hen Karl joined Chanel in January 1983, the house was on the verge of bankruptcy,鈥� Middleton told AP. 鈥淲hen he died, it was a $11 billion powerhouse. That was Karl鈥檚 business sense, of course, but it was also his strength as a designer.鈥�
Champagne-clinking VIP guests discussed the enduring legacy of the man, whose decades-long stewardship of both Fendi and Chanel made him one of the late 20th century鈥檚 most influential designers.
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
