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At New York Fashion Week, music can be as crucial as clothes

NEW YORK (AP) 鈥 The carpets have been rolled up and the racks of clothes have disappeared, leaving only a few stray feathers and sequins behind, but some New York Fashion Week guests may still be humming the tunes they heard on the runways for days t
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Fashion designer Michael Kors appears on the runway after showing his latest collection, during Fashion Week, Wednesday, Feb. 15, 2023, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

NEW YORK (AP) 鈥 The carpets have been rolled up and the racks of clothes have disappeared, leaving only a few stray feathers and sequins behind, but some guests may still be humming the tunes they heard on the runways for days to come.

That鈥檚 actually a goal for many designers when they choose the precious few songs played as models strut the runway, wearing their latest lines.

鈥淚t鈥檚 a quick movie that we鈥檙e doing when we put a fashion show together,鈥 in an interview this week at his fall/winter show. 鈥淭he soundtrack is so important.鈥

Kors鈥 latest collection featured some bohemian flair: miniskirts, big belts and high boots, made of suede, and fringe accents with a modern sensibility. It was an ode to strong women who influenced him in his early life, like Tina Turner, Jane Fonda who sat in the front row.

In a nod to them, Kors鈥 team created an all-female soundtrack, much of it played by a live string orchestra in the center of the runway.

鈥漎ou鈥檙e going to hear Joan Baez, a little Stevie Nicks, and then Grace Slick," Kors said, adding that his anthem was 鈥渁lways鈥 鈥淪omebody to Love.鈥 鈥淚 always think what hits me emotionally in the gut, but then I always find a different way to do it. Jefferson Airplane done orchestrally is definitely a spin on things.鈥

Designer David Blond agrees that he and his partner Phillipe Blond are inspired by film and music and see their shows as pieces of art.

鈥淎ll of our soundtracks are cinematic in scope and they really do 鈥 support the show. And it wouldn鈥檛 be the same without it, not just the visual, but the sound is really important,鈥 David Blond said.

For Wes Gordon, the creative director this season鈥檚 playlist was personal. Models walked the runway at The Plaza Hotel to 鈥淕eorgia on My Mind,鈥 among other songs.

鈥'Georgia' was a nod to my newborn daughter. Her name is Georgia. She鈥檚 far too young to know or appreciate it but someday I鈥檒l tell her,鈥 Gordon said as his eyes lit up.

There are many elements competing for attention at fashion shows 鈥 the clothes, hair and makeup, celebrity and industry guests in the front row, and often dramatic venues. But the music can set a tone or underscore a theme the designer is trying to convey.

Many of the Herrera designs had a feminine, romantic essence.

鈥淚 kind of did a love theme because tomorrow is Valentine鈥檚 Day,鈥 Gordon said on Monday. 鈥淭he opening was 鈥楽ay a Little Prayer.鈥 We did Rihanna of course because, Rihanna is Rihanna! And the finale was Whitney Houston鈥檚 鈥業 Wanna Dance with Somebody.鈥"

Tory Burch is a longtime women's empowerment advocate and chose her playlist to include iconic female voices.

鈥淚 wanted to think about women vocalists and singers 鈥 starting with Tammy Wynette,鈥 Burch said after her show. 鈥淭he idea of 鈥楽tand by Your Man鈥 and clearly, you know, I believe in women鈥檚 empowerment, so it鈥檚 a bit ironic, although I think Tammy Wynette was an amazing, strong woman.鈥

also walked to opera and the Eurythmics, and ended with Carly Simon鈥檚 鈥淵ou鈥檙e So Vain.鈥 When asked why that song, Burch smiled and 鈥 much like 鈥 Burch said she wanted her choice to use it to be 鈥渓eft to interpretation.鈥

Many designers were eager to discuss their music choices, seeing it as part of their message when putting out a new collection.

鈥淔ashion and music, there鈥檚 a blur where one leaves off and one begins,鈥 Mark Badgley of Badgley Mischka said. 鈥淭here鈥檚 a lot of designers whose soundtracks inspire every detail on the runway. It definitely has an influence over what we do.鈥

James Mischka takes the lead on choosing music for their shows and this season was influenced by travel to Italy and

鈥淲e started off with a lot of retro 鈥60s Italian music," Mischka said. "We used a little bit of the music from 鈥楾he Menu鈥 鈥 which is one of our favorite movies and the music is entrancing and hypnotic to give a sort of hypnotic feeling to the whole show.鈥

Much like designing clothes, music is subjective so designers can鈥檛 always please their audience with the songs they choose.

鈥淪ome people are more judgmental about the music than they are about the clothes,鈥 Badgley says with a laugh. 鈥淲e鈥檙e up against that all the time.鈥

The fashion week schedule is typically jampacked with several shows happening each day, so music is one way to remain memorable. That鈥檚 one of Gordon鈥檚 objectives when scoring his shows.

鈥淢y hope is always that you leave and by the end of the day, you hate me so much because the song is stuck in your head and you can鈥檛 get it out!鈥 he said.

___

Associated Press journalist John Carucci contributed to this report.

Brooke Lefferts, The Associated Press

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