PARIS (AP) 鈥� Chemena Kamali鈥檚 sophomore collection for Chlo茅 was a luminous exploration of femininity, blending the house鈥檚 heritage with a fresh, sensual energy for spring. Set against a backdrop of sun-faded apricots, blushes and soft whites, the collection captured Kamali鈥檚 vision of a summer that she surmised as: 鈥渨hen you pause, escape, explore and recharge.鈥� It celebrated Chlo茅鈥檚 free-spirited DNA, infused with a lightness that felt both nostalgic and forward-looking.
Here are some highlights of Thursday's shows at :
Kamali's joyful freedom
鈥淭here鈥檚 a liberating expression of total freedom,鈥� Kamali said, of her spring display.
This freedom flowed through silk charmeuse gowns, lingerie-inspired crop tops and peek-a-boo designs.
Echoes of Karl Lagerfeld鈥檚 70s Chlo茅 lingered in exaggerated shoulders and standout pieces, like a loose-fitting, vivid blue coat. 鈥淐hlo茅 is not a passing moment; it鈥檚 an eternal state of mind,鈥� Kamali noted, grounding her collection in the house鈥檚 long-standing ethos of optimism and instinct.
Layering played a central role, but Kamali kept it light and intuitive, reflecting what she called a 鈥渧ery personal way of dressing.鈥� Sheer fabrics and sun-worn lace mixed effortlessly with ribbed jerseys, creating looks that felt weightless and spontaneous, a signature of Kamali鈥檚 debut collection. 鈥淲hat matters to me is the feeling and intuition,鈥� she said.
A standout moment came in the form of a dramatic trapeze-shaped silk gown, its dynamic silhouette swirling with movement. It epitomized Kamali鈥檚 ability to honor Chlo茅鈥檚 romantic roots while infusing a modern sensibility. 鈥淭he mood is light, weightless, sensual and joyful,鈥� she explained. That joyful freedom was a defining thread from start to finish.
With her second outing, Kamali proved she is . She crafted a spring collection that balanced nostalgia and sensuality while pushing the house toward a bright, optimistic future.
Mugler鈥檚 Cadwallader takes a bite at fashion
Casey Cadwallader delivered a striking debut for , equal parts theatrical and innovative. The hair, sculpted into harsh fringes like a viper鈥檚 fang, set the tone for a collection defined by sharp architectural lines. Curving lapels adorned tight jackets, while tendrils of latticed silk flowed into skirts that bled vibrant yellows, creating a visual spectacle.
The collection boldly embraced femininity, featuring a bust that echoed the form of seashells and a densely packed bustier resembling a diving whale. This daring aesthetic aligns with Cadwallader鈥檚 aim to infuse the brand with a fresh energy, moving away from the extravagance that some original Mugler fans long for. However, the theatrical elements, while captivating, may prompt questions about whether they overshadow the essence of traditional fashion presentation.
Oversized tubular arms complemented a webbed skirt-coat, while a transparent loose trench evoked the look of a sea medusa, reinforcing Cadwallader鈥檚 commitment to pushing boundaries. This collection showcases a provocative take on body-conscious design and inclusivity, aiming to resonate with a diverse audience.
Yet, Cadwallader鈥檚 choice to prioritize multimedia and performance raises concerns. Critics may feel this direction dilutes the brand鈥檚 identity, diverting from the high-fashion roots that established Mugler鈥檚 reputation. The sentiment that the house is now focused more on entertainment than on pure fashion is a conversation that continues to unfold.
As the audience reacted with applause, it was clear that while not everyone may embrace this new vision, those who do are eager for more.
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
